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Travellog for a short trip from Kuala Lumpur to Pulau Weh via Banda Aceh

With Air Asia flying to Banda Aceh from KL, Pulau Weh is now only a short flight and ferry ride away from Malaysia. We did a great 4 day trip to the island and wrote down all prices, requirements and random things we came across (getting visa, getting to and around Banda Aceh, Pulau Weh, things to see, places to stay etc.).

Flight from Kuala Lumpur and how to get to the airport

at LCCT Terminal

The journey started in Kuala Lumpur from where we booked an Air Asia flight (round trip) for about RM150 (including seat reservations, 1 piece of luggage and the bus ticket to the LCCT Terminal). The bus ticket with Skybus (1h from KL Sentral) costs usually RM9 but if you book it with your flight already you save RM2.50. Other options: Aerobus RM8 (from KL Sentral), Star Shuttle RM10 (Puduraya).

Other options to get to Banda Aceh
Fireflyz flies to Banda Aceh from Penang (Malaysia). Four airlines fly between Medan and Banda Aceh. Besides Garuda Indonesia, there are two low-cast carriers: Lion Air and Sriwijaya Air.
A long distance bus from Medan to Banda Aceh (10-12h) costs about Rp.120,000 (2+2 seater bus) or Rp.180,000-200,00 (2+1 seater bus).

Visa application
Since Banda Aceh does not have the facilities for a Visa upon Arrival yet (like most major airports and sea ports in Indonesia), we were required to get a Visa at the Indonesian Embassy beforehand (Kuala Lumpur). It costs RM170 (no Visa required for Malaysian citizens) regardless if you applying for 2 months visa (max) or just 7 days like us. The process takes 1 day, you applied today and you are already able to collect your visa the next day (3-5pm is the collection time). But if say you applied before 12pm, you’ll be able to collect it within the same day, collection time. Checking their operating hours would be wise as while we were there, coincidentally bumped into their lunch hour, 1-2pm. Hence we had to wait but there is a food stall nearby run by Indonesians, where the food is quite up to the standard (though can be slightly pricey). The application requires a fill in form of your details and passport size photos (2 pieces); however if you do not have two, there is a place in the building where they can snap a passport shot of you and you can already collect it, say within an hour (not sure about the price).

Getting around Banda Aceh and to Pulau Weh
After a quick 80mins flight, we arrived at the new airport in Banda Aceh at 12.20pm, thinking we still have some time to kill to get the fast ferry at 4pm to Pulau Weh (Rp.60,000, economy seat, 45mins to Pulau Weh). But when we got out of the airport, a kind taxi driver approach us (there will be many approaching you) and said that we can still make it for the slow ferry at 2pm and it costs Rp.90,000. Eddie, 0813 7721 0393, is the taxi driver who speaks well English and apparently look alike the young version of Obama; he also offers tours around town. So we followed him (wanting to get to the island faster) and still have time to stop on the way to get water and some local snack. Other option will be to get into town with Labu-Labu (mini bus) for Rp.8,000 and take another labu-labu for Rp.6,000 to the port. There is also motor-becaks (imagine a trishaw but instead of with a bicycle at the side, it is motorbikes) that can bring you around. A becak is roughly 30% cheaper than a taxi. On top of it all, bargain is highly recommended.

Ferry Times from Ulee Lhe (Banda Aceh) to Balohan (Pulau Weh)
Fast ferry: 9.30am, 4pm (45min)
Slow (car) ferry: 2pm (mon, tue, thur, fri), 11am & 4pm (wed, sat, sun)

More info about Transport in and around Banda Aceh:
www.sumatraecotourism.com

More info about getting to Pulau Weh:
www.lumbalumba.com

We reached Ulee Lhe ferry terminal on time (it is at the other side of town of the airport and takes about 30min to get there with the taxi). The ticket for the slow ferry is Rp.19,000. The slow ferry is a new car ferry (2008) with a passenger deck. The journey took 1h30min to Balohan port on Pulau Weh (or Sabang, as the island is locally known).

Pulau Weh (Sabang)

When you arrive at Balohan port, there are a few options to get around the island. A minibus to Sabang town costs Rp.15,000 per person (add Rp.5,000 if you continue to Sumur Tiga beach, or Rp.10,000 for a becak from Sabang to Sumur Tiga). It takes about 15-20mins to get to Sabang town from the ferry. The other two tourist beaches (Gapang and Iboih) are further away towards the north-west of the island (about 45min-1h from the port). They charge Rp.150,000 per minibus. A taxi also costs Rp.150,000 (or Rp.50,000 per pax if there are 3 and more passengers) to Gapang / Iboih, and Rp.60,000 to Sabang.

Iboih

jetty at Iboih

We got lucky and met some people on the ferry who were kind enough to drive us to Iboih. We gave them Rp.50,000 for petrol later. In Iboih, you will be dropped off at the parking lot at a small beach. From there, you follow a pathway along the rocky coastline through the forest to get to the accommodations. In this area, prices range from Rp.50,000 to Rp.250,000. Most bungalows here do not have attached bathroom and some not even a fan; however, most places have their own café/ restaurant. For a long-term stay, you might be able to get up to 50% discount. The area around Rubiah Tirta Divers with the small beach is the liveliest place at night but in general, Iboih is a very quiet and relaxed place with bungalows spread out over a relatively long stretch along the jungle pathway. Except for the short stretch at Rubiah Tirta Divers, there is no sandy beach. Most bungalows are located at a steep hill side cantilevered within the trees at a rocky coastline. You can get to the water from the jetties of some places and snorkel right there. There is an amazing snorkeling spot at Pulau Rubiah (5min boat ride from Iboih – we paid Rp.30,000 per person to get there and get picked up 2 hours later). Snorkeling gears costs Rp.15,000 per item for the whole day.

The main roads on Pulau Weh are in excellent condition and have just been finished recently (2008/2009). With a rental price of Rp.70,000 for a motorbike per day, it might be a good idea to discover the island this way. But ride carefully as the roads are curvy and steep at certain parts of the island and can be in bad condition if you get off the main routes.

We, however, decided to hire a taxi for a day for an island tour, which costs us Rp.400,000. Mr.Firdaus (phone: 0852 6087 6849) was an excellent guide and spoke good English. He took us to Kilometer Nol, where Indonesia starts. Before we drive into the area of Kilometer Nol, we had to pay another Rp.20,000 to some army road block (with guys just wearing t-shirts instead of uniforms) because the area is within the military zone.

Gapang

Gapang beach

Next we went to Gapang beach. Gapang beach (which is less than 5min by car before Iboih) has a bigger sand beach than Iboih. There are 2 big but not very charming bungalow resorts and Steffen Sea Sports (dive centre with another branch on Coral Bay, Pulau Perhentian Kecil, Malaysia) on the way from the main road to the beach. At the beach itself, there is a couple of simple and cheap bungalows, and Lumba Lumba, a dive school run by a Dutch couple. Lumba Lumba has 7 modern and high standard duplex bungalows (20-25€) with more under construction. The bungalows are for divers but if there is still availability, they won’t send you away as a non-diver.
The beach is very busy on the weekends with locals. It provides excellent snorkeling and diving experience too, right of the beach.

Around the island
Next, we went to Balek Gunung at the other side of the island (less than 5min from Gapang) which has a beautiful rocky beach. Later, we went to a waterfall (biggest on the island) about halfway between Gapang and Sabang, which can be reached after 30mins of trekking through a jungle with a relatively challenging few river crossings. Then it was time for lunch (late lunch actually), we had an excellent Acehnese food at a small restaurant in the Sabang Town. After the satisfying meal, we went to see the Mini Volcano, a volcanic area in the South of the island. This also requires some trekking skills to trek through the river of sulfured rocks and sand (sand makes it harder to trek, especially on steep hill) and climbing up to the top where you can see green neon like spots on the hill with steams gushing out from the ground. Later at night, we were taken to try this highly recommended Sabang Mie (a local Chinese dish) in Sabang Town.

Sumur Tiga

postcard beach at Sumur Tiga

For the last night, we stayed at Sumur Tiga which is the best beach on the island during the western season, especially the second half of the year. The beach is near to town but still quiet and laid back. There are two well-equipped and beautifully design small “resorts” there: Casa Nemo and Freddie’s Santai Sumur Tiga (Freddie, from South-Africa, owns Santai Sumur and manages Casa Nemo). Both of them have excellent restaurants. Price: Rp225,000-Rp.275,000 plus tax.

Back to Banda Aceh
We got up early to watch the sunrise shortly after 6am, stroll along the beach and make it to the fast ferry at 8.30am (ticket price: Rp.55,000, 45mins). The slow ferry already leaves at 8am but gets to Banda Aceh 15min later than the fast ferry, if it leaves on schedule (which we were told is not always the case). So we took the fast ferry to get to Banda Aceh early enough to visit some places in town and lunch before we have to be at the airport at noon (the flight left at 12.50pm). We charted a taxi for Rp.150,000, which took us to the floating Generator Ship and we stopped at a warung nearby for the famous Acehnese coffee. Then, we stopped at the Grand Mosque and a place to eat and off to the airport. I wish we had more time in Banda Aceh, the friendliness of the people really impressed me.

aerial shot of Banda Aceh

While checking in at the airport, we were told to pay Rp.100,000 for tax to leave country, which caused some stress to some people as they were not aware of the fee and they probably not had enough in hand. But there are ATM and money changer there for emergencies like these. The only other ATM is on Pulau Weh in Sabang town, you can only withdraw a limited amount (Rp.500,000 per transaction, max. 10 times a day) so it is best to roughly calculate the expenses beforehand and bring enough Rupiah and some side-money for emergencies.

www.sumatraecotourism.com has a fantastic little magazine which gives you all information you need about Pulau Weh. You can download it for free!

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